Television media stand from vintage sideboard (part 3)

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Wow! This project went a lot faster and was easier then I expected although we did have a few bumps in the road. Not sure why I waited so long!

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First, the vintage cabinet got some repairs and changes made to its structure. The inside shelf was removed, the height was shortened by removing two drawers, and veneer was replaced or repaired.

TIP – if looking to do the same find furniture that is made from 100% wood and is preferably with construction that is tongue and groove (hint: look at the drawers and inside corners).

Second, the television cabinet former sideboard was painted with two coats of Black Onyx semi gloss latex premium paint from Glidden. My other blog post has a lot of tips on how to use the HomeRight Paint Sprayer to make it go much easier and faster. However, I would not use this paint brand again (see below on why).

Now for the finishing touches:

First, we used a coat of paint stripper on the top of the cabinet. This was to remove any old topcoat of varnish or poly as well as clean off any gunk.

Next it was sanded using mostly a fine sandpaper on an electric sander. Again this was just to lighten the wood from the original stain. Husband did this for me and was very industrious! He got it down to bare wood and almost all of the damage out, except for one round stain that remains.

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The stain I used on the top is a water based, wood stain by General Finishes called Antique Oak. I like this color because it has a gray undertone in it and not the dreaded yellow or red color you see in other oak stains.

You may be more familiar with the wipe on Java gel stain this company offers due to the many, many Pinterest projects that use it 😀 If you haven’t used General Finishes before, I highly recommend their products. Very easy to use and a great result.

This water based, stain product is a bit thick like their Java Gel stain, and it is also grainy which surprised me. It went on darker then I expected but that was okay. It dried very fast! So work quickly! I used a foam brush applicator, wore latex gloves and wiped off with a lint clean rag.

TIP: This top was down to bare wood and it was very dry. It soaked up the stain very quickly so be aware you might need to work faster on old wood, vintage pieces then you would on projects that use new wood.

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After one coat of stain, I put on two protective coats of Velvet Finishes Protect on the top and Howard paste wax in neutral on the bottom. The first time using this wax and I’m impressed. Went on very easy (unlike Annie Sloan’s wax) and had the most delicious smell! Easy to buff too.

Behind the Scenes: I tried VF Protect on the black paint area and boy was that a mistake! It immediately started stripping off the paint! Whoa! So if using this product on anything but their own line do a test patch first. I already knew it worked well over this stain due to the kitchen island project where I used them both in combination.

The cabinet originally had wood knobs which I felt made it too country and dated for me. Those I replaced.

The doors didn’t close right and that wasn’t because they were warped (very hard to fix) but because they needed new hardware. Replaced!

Thoughts on this project:

I made a few mistakes. First one, is that I should have treated the bare wood panel we used on one side with a primer or sealant. Once the paint hit it, it raised the wood grain, giving a rough appearance to the surface. Solution? I gave it a slight hand sanding to smooth it down and then repainted that panel with the black.

Second mistake, when I put the cabinet up on 5 gallon buckets that wasn’t really high enough. I should have waited and used the sawhorses which would have allowed me to approach each side at a different angle by simply adding a step stool or not using a step stool. When you can’t change the paint approach slightly (instead you approach head on so to speak) it is hard to get coverage into crevices. I later touched that up with a foam brush.

Third mistake, I used the Velvet Finishes Protect on the black area without doing a test and disaster! It removed the black paint like a paint remover! Egad! Immediately cleaned it off with denatured alcohol, let dry and reapplied the black with a foam brush on the damaged areas.

I do wish I had sprayed on a primer. I think it would have given more grip for the paint and when I do the next project, the King Poster Bed, I will use a primer.

I also wish we had put some sort of ornamentation on the front kickboard area as it looks a little too plain next to all the other carving. OTOH, I’ve since swept in this room and the kickboard allowed me to get a clean sweep across without shoving dust under the unit. Yay!

I think this project would have looked even cooler in a color! Like a red, coral, turquoise or blue. However, I know we’ll be moving in a few years and wanted this in a classic color that would work with a lot of different furniture colors so black it was.

Future thoughts…

The inside of this unit is to store dvds but the current containers I have for them isn’t quite the right size. I looked at Target, Walmart, and Bed and Bath and no one has containers for DVDs??!!

I need a bin that has a straight side, not tapered (that removes the interior space) and with a lid. I found these small and large box at the Container Store so that looks like the storage solution there. Though still looking through various possibilities at Ikea.

Television media stand from vintage sideboard (part 2)

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Before painting this piece, it was cleaned using denatured alcohol; this removes any wax or topcoat and also cleans off the dust and grime. It didn’t really need any sanding except over the repaired areas (see the last post).

Paint used: Glidden Premium, semi gloss latex, color Deep Onyx from Home Depot. I bought a gallon as I’ll be using this color on my four poster bed and the front door.

Dilution: 3 cups paint to 15 tablespoons water. This was a THICK PAINT! so this was the number I went with after using the cup provided by the HomeRight paint sprayer kit.

The Good:

The last time I used a paint sprayer it was a commercial one and it made a lot of overspray! This machine is far more targeted so that means less of a chance of a big mess. However, I would still tape off or cover in plastic anything you don’t want misted if you were doing this inside or in the garage. I did this project outdoors as it was a lovely day with little wind.

After reading the directions the machine was actually far easier to use then I expected from the Amazon reviews. It’s not that complicated but it does take some experimentation with testing the paint’s viscosity and figuring out the best amount of pressure and nozzle direction for your project.

The paint went further then I expected (about 2 cups finished the project). With a commercial paint sprayer it hooks into a gallon or 5 gallon tank and used a lot more paint so I’m very pleased with this HomeRight because it’s just right for smaller projects.

It dried amazingly fast. Because the first coat was thin with a sprayer (vs. a brush or roller) it was dry within 30 minutes. I went back and got a second coat on without having to clean my sprayer. Yay!

Timewise, I got the first coat applied in 10 minutes, the second coat in about 8 minutes. If I had been using a brush or roller with all the carving on this piece this would have been a half day project of rolling and cutting in around the carved pieces. TIMESAVER.

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TIPS and TROUBLESHOOTING

DO NOT SKIP THE STEP OF DILUTING YOUR PAINT (if needed). Be sure to test it. That was actually the longest part of my project and took me half an hour to get it right. Husband was going to dilute the whole gallon and I was like hold on there cowboy!

I took one cup in a container and tested that over and over again. I wasn’t going to dilute the entire gallon and then end up ruining it. Start small, test small and then apply to the larger batch you are going to do. Mine for example was 3 cups paint to 15 tablespoons water and that did the entire project.

The job went very well because of the time spent on testing the thickness of the paint. Also, I plan on doing my king sized, poster bed with this same paint/sprayer technique so when I start that project, I already know the dilution needed.

Once you have your paint loaded and you are about to pull that trigger – WAIT. Get a piece of cardboard and spray on it for about 1 minute. That loads up the paint into the sprayer and you won’t get that first splotchy coat on your proect. It also gives you a moment to adjust the nozzle or pressure.

This machine works a lot like a can of spray paint (but much better). Some of the issues you have with spraypaint you can run into here – don’t keep your sprayer pointed at one place – keep it moving all the time or you will end up with blotching.

You need to be quick to take your hand/finger off the trigger! Don’t go heavy and put the handle in a death grip! Be ready to stop at anytime when you are not sure by simply removing the pressure on the handle.

Just like spraypaint cans if your nozzle gets dirty or jammed, your flow will come out splotchy and uneven. Always clean your machine between jobs or even within the same job if you are taking too long between coats. It’s why I bought a special cleaning kit to make it go easier.

The nozzle direction didn’t quite work out the way I was expecting so the first few passes were a bit chancy. I changed the nozzle and it worked better for the way I intuitively paint. Be ready to make changes and start with an experimental piece to test out how the machine works.

The spray looked a little bumpy on that first coat, however, on this project, when I went back in 30 minutes the paint coat had magically evened out! Yay! So finish wise I have to say I feel it is just about right for what I wanted. Unless you have an obvious run, wait till the first coat dries and examine to see if it is right.

At first, I felt the droplet spray was a little too large and not as fine as I would like. This is a compromise. Do you want more area covered? Bigger spray. Smaller area takes more time but the spray can be finer. Again, pick a piece to experiment with (or some cardboard) to get a feel for the machine.

People complain about the short cord. I actually prefer the short cord and use an extension cord. My sander has a long cord but it isn’t long enough to really work around a project so it ends up being more of a pain to store then a help. Just use an extension cord 😉

I also bought an extra paint container with lid. So after I finished the black paint, I capped the paint container that came with the original sprayer and put it aside to later use for my bed project.

If you are going to be switching back and forth between paints or topcoats and don’t want to clean out each container or  you want to store back your diluted paint but not with the un-diluted paint, consider buy some of these!

DON’T BE SLOPPY, CLEAN YOUR MACHINE! Just like any spray can, if the nozzle gets jammed it can’t mist the paint or other product you want to use. If you are not applying coats within 30 minutes of each other, your paint could be drying in the nozzle which would effect the quality of future sprays.

Yes, it takes time to take the machine apart and clean it, but the finish and relief from other hassles (cleaning brushes, having the garbage of spray paint cans and rollers, more time painting etc…) is well worth it.

I’ll be wrapping up the info blog posts for this project by tomorrow with info on staining the top of the cabinet, putting in hardware so the doors close better and new knobs.